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I am a Senior Research Fellow in Design and and chair of the Research Through Design group at Kingston University.
My practice-based research focuses on women's footwear from technical, material and cultural perspectives. My current research considers the role design and media play in the social and cultural formation of the ‘high-heeled woman', in turn challenging the hardened typologies that uphold repressive stereotypes with regard to women's social and physical mobility.
I am interested in expanding and diversifying the theoretical and contextual frameworks of fashion through both my research practice and teaching. From 2012 until 2015 I was Professor of Fashion at the Universiät der Künste in Berlin where I initiated a multi-disciplinary approach, seeking to challenge pre-conceived and limiting parameters in Fashion education. I am also a member of OUTSKIRTS, a collective of fashion practitioners and academics who explore and develop Practice Based Fashion Research to empower alternative modes of being and doing fashion subsequently redefining and repositioning the discipline and nurturing discursive fashion.
Pursuing my interests via my research practice, exhibitions, conference presentations and pedagogy, I lecture and run workshops regularly at a number of international institutions.
Senior Research Fellow
With my work I aim to consistently challenge generic typologies of women's shoes through experiments with non-traditional technologies and material techniques. By reinventing the design methodology and the process by which footwear is made, the resulting shoes serve as unique examples of new aesthetic and structural possibilities, while also serving to criticise the conventional status of women's shoes as cultural objects.
My research-based practice is focused on the social and cultural construct of the ‘high-heeled woman', and the intersections between craft and technological production, design methodology, the iconology of materials and feminist theory. I aim to dissect the role design and media play in the social and cultural formation of the high-heeled woman, in turn challenging the hardened typologies that uphold repressive stereotypes with regard to women's social and physical mobility. My objective is to understand and propose alternatives to the status quo.
The research informs critical works produced in a variety of mediums ranging from film, objects, installations and shoe-artifacts. It is disseminated in a variety of contexts through international exhibitions, conferences, artist talks and in both academic and non-academic publications. Notable exhibitions were held at the Museum of Art and Design New York, Modemuseum in Hasselt and the Victoria and Albert Museum. My work was nominated for the Designs of the Year, Design Museum London (2009) and was selected for the Jerwood Contemporary Makers Prize and Exhibition (2010) and won the Best Idea award at Copenhagen Fashion Film Festival 2019. My work is part of the permanent collection of the Fashion Institute of Technology New York. From 2011-2013 I was a Stanley Picker Fellow, Kingston University and in 2008 a Designer in Residence at D-Lab, Kyoto Institute of Technology. I welcome proposals from prospective PhD and MA by Research students working in the areas of discursive fashion, footwear, embodiment, gender, craft and technology.
Bhomer, Marloes ten [Designer] (2009) After hours : Rotationalmouldedshoe, Mutant parade, Rotationalmouldingmachine, Color, Testpieces, Heels on hold, Cavity unfolded, Last, Slice. (Grouping of artefacts).
ten Bhömer, Marloes (2021) Mulheres em Movimento = Women in motion. In: Galhano, Joana, (ed.) O Ato de Caminhar = The act of walking : Marloes ten Bhömer. S. João da Madeira : Câmara Municipal de S. João da Madeira. pp. 8-11. ISBN 9789729148651
ten Bhomer, Marloes, Hoette, Ruby, Pollmann, Alexa, Poslethwaite, Susan and Thiel, Kat (2017) Breaking the script. In: Thornquist, Clemens and Bigolin, Ricarda, (eds.) Everything and everybody as material : beyond fashion design methods. Boras, Sweden : The School of Fashion and Textiles, RMIT University and The Swedish School of Textiles, University of Boras. pp. 226-231. ISBN 9789188269799
ten Bhomer, Marloes (2017) Research as object, towards a material and cultural investigation. In: Thornquist, Clemens and Bigolin, Ricarda, (eds.) Everything and everybody as material : beyond fashion design methods. Boras, Sweden : The School of Fashion and Textiles, RMIT University and The Swedish School of Textiles, University of Boras. pp. 220-225. ISBN 9789188269799
ten Bhomer, Marloes [Researcher] (2022) Walking in film as muscle memory training and movement bias development? In: Women walking: histories, movement and mobilities; 24-26 Mar-2022, Online.
ten Bhömer, Marloes, Hoette, Ruby, Thiel, Kat and Pollmann, Alexa (2021) The educator - gatekeeper or enabler? In: The Digital Multilogue on Fashion and Education : A Conference on Learning and Teaching Fashion in Theory and Practice; 01 - 02 Oct 2021, Held online. (Unpublished)
ten Bhömer, Marloes [Co-creator], Hoette, Ruby [Co-creator], Pollman, Alexa [Co-creator] and Thiel, Kat [Co-creator] (2020) The educator : gatekeeper or enabler. In: Digital Multilogue on Fashion Education; 25 Sep 2020, Held online. (Unpublished)
ten Bhomer, Marloes (2020) The gendering of a woman's gait and shoes as design subject. In: Invited talk; 08 Jan 2020, London, U.K.. (Unpublished)
ten Bhomer, Marloes (2019) The parameters required to support a woman in motion. In: Research Through Design 2019, Methods and Critique; 19-22 Mar 2019, Delft, Netherlands.
ten Bhomer, Marloes (2018) Walking women : shoe construction and female gait as a design subject. In: KYOTO Design Lab : Public Lecture; 20 Apr 2018, Kyoto, Japan. (Unpublished)
ten Bhomer, Marloes (2017) Research as object : towards a material and cultural investigation. In: Everything and everybody as material : beyond fashion design methods; 07 - 09 Jun 2017, Boras, Sweden.
van Heeren, Clive [Contributor], ten Bhomer, Marloes [Contributor] and Fleming, Kathryn [Contributor] (2016) Toward an alternative methodology. In: Ravensbourne Late : Wearable futures; 20 Apr 2016, London, U.K.. (Unpublished)
ten Bhomer, Marloes (2014) Cultural and associative opportunities and limitations of traditional and technological production. In: Global Fashion 2014 : Rethinking & Reworking Global Fashion; 20 -21 Nov 2014, Ghent, Belgium. (Unpublished)
ten Bhomer, Marloes (2014) What is the relevance of the trench coat in the time of drone wars? In: Design Culture Salon 11 : How do Fashion Cycles and Design Culture Interact?; 14 Nov 2014, London, U.K.. (Unpublished)